DON'T MISS A THING

The Best Shows on New York Fashion Week September 2015
New York, birth place of KOKET, is always one of the most inspirational cities for us. And when we add fashion to that, is the perfect combination. Today we selected our favorite designers, our favorite lavish new collections and creations that you will love.
1. Marc Jacobs

The show was a love letter to the movies, America’s greatest invention; to America itself; and to a New York City that’s all but vanished. The Ziegfeld is the largest surviving single-screen theater in Manhattan, and trumpeter Brian Newman and his band played punk progenitors the New York Dolls’s 1973 song “Trash.”

Nostalgia is the most powerful force in Jacobs’s work. This season he indulged his insatiable, catholic tendencies: High culture (Maria Callas as Medea), low (showgirls), and things in between (Janet Leigh in Psycho) mingled on the runway.

You couldn’t help but think that Andy Warhol would have appreciated it, not least of all because some of the prints were suggestive of the Pop artist’s silkscreens.
 
2. Oscar de La Renta

Oscar was a revelation, respectful of the late designer’s legacy but with a confident personal flair that will ensure that these Latin-tinged cocktail numbers and gowns are at the top of celebrity stylists’ wish lists. Us regular girls will dream, too.

Copping was partially inspired by his discovery that De la Renta had met Ava Gardner, whose lover was a bullfighter, in the 1950s.

But to research the Spring collection, he had also been up to the Hispanic Society of Harlem to look at their paintings surrounding bullfighting—he took in everything from the pale blue satin of a matador suit painted by Goya, to the exact shade of baked yellow Francis Bacon used in a bullfighting scene, to “the colors of peasant wool embroidery on popular Spanish postcards,” said Copping.
 
3. Givanchi

For Givenchy’s first show at a New York fashion week on Friday evening – 11 September, the anniversary of the city’s 2001 terror attacks – it must have been tempting for creative director Riccardo Tisci to send out a collection packed full of stars and stripes.
But, as the fashion world should know by now, that is not Tisci’s style. This is a man full of surprises – one who put Donatella Versace in his advertising campaigns and almost single-handy made the sweater a high fashion staple.
Here, he kept the Americanisms to the minimum – an abstracted American flag in shiny black appeared on the black jackets of suits worn by male models, a whisper rather than a scream.

Instead of pure patriotism, Tisci’s American Dream was about bringing different cultures together – something that makes sense to those who know the Italian-born designer as a rare voice pushing diversity in fashion, across race and gender.This inclusive attitude was made explicit in the audience which numbered Tisci’s gang – Kanye West, Kim Kardashian, Jennifer Hudson, Karen Elson and Liv Tyler – as well as more than a thousand students who had won tickets to the show.

If all the buzz in the build-up had been about Caitlyn Jenner attending – or possibly walking the runway – those disappointed would perhaps have been satisfied by a different kind of performance.
Working with friend and artist Marina Abramović, this was a fashion show on a grand conceptual scale. The huge set consisted of recycled metal panels nailed together, and featured several live performance art set-ups, including a woman standing under a stream of running water and a man holding tree branches, as a symbol of “support and life force”.
 
4. Rodarte

The beautifully feminine Rodarte show was the powerful effect of taking time to read poetry, and then seeing how it works on your creativity.

Whatever therapy reading poetry offers the soul, it seems to have refocused the Mulleavys on what they do best and believe in most, giving them the heart to fully concentrate on the art of dressmaking, which has always been at their fingertips, but has, at times, drifted from their grasp in the crosscurrents of other pop-cultural seasonal notions.

This time, though, their promise was realized in a head-spinning light and complex series of collages of lace, velvet, embroidery, beading, and silk fringing, cut into Victoriana bodices and swinging gently out from small waists to touch the knee. Such lavish techniques can easily lead to heaviness or a sense of inauthentic costume-ness, but this was a fully realized and believable fashion look.
 
5. Alexander Wang

Wang’s show started with a lot of polemic posts on social network regarding his show. There he required a reset due to the context surrounding the New York fashion week show. It was not only the 10th anniversary of the designer’s eponymous label, but the first since the July announcement that he was departing as creative director of Paris fashion house Balenciaga.
The overall mood was the one Wang has made his own: slouchy, cool, off-duty style that never looks like it tries too hard.

Backstage, a breathless Wang explained the collection came from leaving any “high concepts” behind and instead thinking about what “the girls I know wear … and the characters of the girls who wear them”.